Fossil Falls
The Misnomer
"There are no waterfalls at Fossil Falls, although this incredible geographical landmark is enhanced by imagining how the series of enormous waterfalls used to plummet down the breathtaking rock formations.
Exploring Fossil Falls is a great way to explore ancient history that still exists in our day and age. Volcanic flow nearly 20,000 years ago left fields of volcanic rock in what is now the Inyo desert. When glaciers from the Sierra Nevada Mountain range melted after the last ice age they formed rivers and lakes of runoff. As this runoff eroded the basaltic volcanic rock, the rounded, unnatural forms were created. The rock formations are smooth, twisted and black and descend into steep cliffs remembering the power of the ancient rushing waters."
A Fossil of Nature’s Handiwork
What you will find, rather, is a spectacular lava flow sculpted by rushing water and wind late in the Ice Ages—a “fossil” of nature’s handiwork. As you hike the rocky trail through the formation, you’ll wonder at first where the “falls” are because the land immediately before you is relatively flat, but abruptly, you’ll come to the chasm that reveals the spectacular lava falls.
The black shiny lava has been worn smooth over the eons. It was primarily water from the Owens River, which once flowed from an ancient lake, that polished the lava into a smooth structure. The resulting formation is reminiscent of a Renoir sculpture. You can climb down into the chasm and explore the lava gorge, or you can take the high ground and enjoy the scenery that surrounds you.
During the winter months, you may see a trickle of milky green water flowing through the falls, making a striking contrast with the dark lava. It is like watching art in motion.
While the area is an arid desert now, water once flowed from Owens Lake through the narrow valley to create an interconnected system of lakes that are now dry basins. If you look north from Fossil Falls toward Red Hill, you can see remnants of one of the ancient lakes in the form of white sands and silts on the Red Hill Playa.
When lava from volcanic eruptions flowed through the valley, the streams followed the Owens River’s path, creating a river of lava that remains to this day. In addition to lava flows and river systems, the Owens Valley was once covered with glaciers. Melting ice and glacial movement coupled with other elements helped smooth the lava into the artistic, fluid forms we see today.
When looking southward, toward Little Lake, you’ll see several basalt flows. Jessey says that the Upper Little Lake Ranch basalt has been dated at about 130,000 years old and the Lower Little Lake Ranch basalt at about 400,000 years old. The overlying Red Hill basalt has yet to be dated, but estimates range from 10,000 to 130,000 years.
When visiting the area, you will also likely see the prominent cinder cone volcano known as Red Cinder Mountain, or Red Hill. According to David R. Jessey, geology professor at Cal Poly Pomona, the volcano erupted last about 10,000 years ago with evidence suggesting a more recent, relatively minor eruption on the northwest flank of the volcano.
Fremont’s Gold
Parish’s Larkspur
Bearded Cryptantha
Desert Pincushion
Spiny Hopsage
Apricot Mallow
A Milkvetch or Lupine?
Mojave Aster
Reptilian Friends!
Fossil Falls is located about halfway between Owens Lake and Ridgecrest just north of Little Lake on the east side of U. S. Highway 395. If you’re approaching from the south, you’ll see a large cinder cone volcano next to the highway. As you get closer to the volcano, watch for a small sign that says “Fossil Falls.” That’s your turn. If you pass the volcano, you’ve gone too far.
Take Cinder Road, which is unpaved, to the parking area, where you’ll find a restroom and picnic tables. Cinder Road is flat and negotiable for most cars. A short trail leads to the falls. Wear good walking shoes; the trail is somewhat rugged although it should be no major problem for prudent able-bodied hikers. Orange arrows painted onto the rocks point the way.
Fossil Falls is an unusual, otherworldly place that you won’t soon forget. Whether you plan on picnicking, hiking, rock climbing, night sky viewing or camping, you’ll enjoy your visit to this remarkable desert location.
