Chasing History
Day 13: Ruins of the Past
An ongoing issue my mom and I faced during our trip was the definition of early. With so much to see, we had hoped to be able to leave the B&Bs earlier in the morning, but any time we mentioned this to the owner, they would agree and offer to have breakfast ready by 7:15 at the earliest, which meant long days that were starting to end after dusk. We left the Ballifeary Guest House as early as we could manage and set out to see several castles, churches and of course a distillery.
Spynie Palace
Spynie Palace was for 500 years the seat of the bishops of Moray. During that time, the palace stood on the edge of Spynie Loch, a sea loch with safe anchorage for fishing boats and merchant vessels. A thriving settlement developed nearby. Today, nothing remains of either sea loch or medieval settlement. But the impressive ruin of Spynie Palace is the largest surviving medieval bishop’s house in Scotland.
The bishops of Moray may have established their residence at Spynie in the late 1100s. Around 1207, Bishop Brice chose the church of Spynie as his cathedral. His successor, Bishop Andrew, built a new cathedral in Elgin, but the bishops still lived at Spynie. The oldest surviving buildings, dating from the 1300s, include a first-floor hall and perhaps a chapel, with an entrance gateway below. There was another hall range with tall windows against the west wall. A large, circular tower may have held the palace’s main accommodation (only its basement remains).
The colossal David’s Tower dominates the palace complex. It measures 19m by 13.5m externally and rises to a height of 22m, making it one of the largest tower houses ever built in Scotland. The great tower had a first-floor front entrance and six stories. Though named after Bishop David Stewart (1462–76) who commissioned it, the tower remained incomplete at his death. Bishop William Tulloch (1477–82) finished the tower and Bishop Patrick Hepburn (1538–73) added the gun holes. The coats of arms of all three bishops are carved on the south wall, beneath the Royal Coat of Arms of Scotland.
In the mid-1400s, the gateway in the south range was blocked and a more impressive gate put in the east wall. The coat of arms above the gate may belong to Bishop John Winchester (1435–60). By 1500, a large, new great hall and chamber had been erected along the north side of the courtyard, and rectangular towers added to two of the corners. The last building works were carried out for Hepburn, the final pre-Reformation bishop. He had wide-mouthed gun holes inserted at the base of each tower – clearly in anticipation of trouble ahead. Spynie remained a residence for the Bishops of Moray until 1682, when it was annexed to the Crown and rented out for £12 a year.
Elgin Cathedral
Elgin Cathedral, known as the ‘Lantern of the North’, is one of Scotland’s most beautiful medieval cathedrals. The monumentally impressive building dominated the flat and fertile Laich of Moray from the time it was built. It continued to do so even after its demise at the Protestant Reformation of 1560.
Work began on the cathedral in the first half of the 1200s, but it is the product of three main building phases. Even as a ruin, the cathedral still boasts plenty of detail that tells of its development and embellishment. The cathedral was once richly carved and adorned with stained glass and painted decoration. A fine collection of architectural fragments hints at the building’s lost beauty, while documentary evidence sheds light on religious life at Elgin.
The cathedral was the spiritual heart of the diocese of Moray. But the bishop’s ‘cathedra’ (seat) wasn’t always at Elgin. Before the time of Bishop Brice of Douglas (1203–22), it moved between Kinneddar, Birnie and Spynie. Bishop Brice chose Spynie (2 miles north) as the permanent location for hi s cathedral, but it moved to Elgin around 1224. After the Reformation, it was used only sometimes for Catholic worship.
One of Elgin’s former bishops, Alexander Bur (1362–97) boasted that his cathedral was “the ornament of the realm, the glory of the kingdom”. It’s easy to see why, even today. Much of the nave is reduced to foundations, but the rest stands remarkably complete. Most awe-inspiring of all is the spectacular west front. The west front:
is flanked by two tall towers – part the original building
has a processional entrance dating from after 1270
has two doorway arches added in the early 1400s
features an oval recess above, which once housed a carved image, perhaps of the Holy Trinity, and is flanked by angels
The east end of the cathedral was greatly extended after the fire of 1270 to provide a more magnificent setting for worship. The choir and presbytery, built around 1270, show the influence of regional trends, but have a distinctive style unique to Elgin. An octagonal chapter house dates from the late 1200s. Inside are a well-preserved reading lectern and a riot of carved beasts and faces.
Elgin has more medieval memorials than any other Scottish cathedral. The finest are the:
memorial to Bishop John Winchester (1435–60), shown in his Mass vestments
stone effigy of Alexander Gordon, 1st Earl of Huntly, who died in 1470
Elgin Stones Exhibition
View Elgin Cathedral’s impressive collection of more than 100 medieval stones in a new light. This exhibition puts the stones on public display for the first time in 20 years. Among the highlights is the effigy of Bishop Archibald, brought back to its former glory with stunning light effects.
The exhibition features carvings of expressive faces, flora and fauna – from lions to lizards – and a section of a rose window dating to the 1200s. Fragments of medieval window glass from the cathedral, on loan from the Moray Society, are also on display. Come and explore the messages that might be contained within the carvings. We’ll never have all the answers, especially as we don’t know where the stones sat within the cathedral.
Tolquhon Castle
Tolquhon is one of the most picturesque of Grampian’s many castles. It was a noble residence for some 300 years. The oldest part is a tower house of the early 1400s. The Lands of Tolquhon came into the possession of Sir John Forbes in 1420, and it is likely that he built the tower house. An armorial panel displaying his arms was found amongst the rubble of the tower.
The tower is known as Preston’s Tower: Sir John’s wife was Marjorie Preston, heiress of Sir Simon Preston, Lord of Formatine. The castle is first recorded in 1536, as “a tower and a fortalice” – the fortalice probably refers to service buildings around the tower. It was Sir William Forbes, 7th Lord of Tolquhon, who built the castle we see today. He began a major building programme in 1584. When work completed in 1589, Tolquhon made a fine residence for Sir William and his spouse, Elizabeth.
A stone plaque by the front entrance records:
AL THIS WARKE EXCEP THE AULD TOUR WAS BEGVN BE WILLIAM FORBES 15 APRILE 1584 AND ENDIT BE HIM 20 OCTOBER 1589
Architect Thomas Leiper adopted the idea of a rectangular, three-storey residential block, with other ranges of buildings grouped around a central courtyard. This was instead of the traditional tower house design favoured by his predecessors. The galleries (indoor recreation spaces) on the first floor of the west and north ranges – and accessible from the family’s private apartment in the south block – were an innovation. Beyond the courtyard, Sir William added a formal garden and large walled pleasance (pleasure ground). The castle’s lavish decorations include carved human figures on the twin-towered gatehouse, two of which are likely Sir William and Lady Elizabeth.
Huntly Castle
Huntly Castle is a noble ruin famous for both the quality of its architecture and for its eventful history. Its beautiful setting is the green heart of the Aberdeenshire countryside. The earls of Fife built the original castle, the Peel of Strathbogie, around 1190, to guard the crossing-point where the rivers Bogie and Deveron meet. But it was the mighty Gordons who made the stronghold their own from the 1300s and eventually renamed it Huntly Castle. The surviving remains tell the story of the development of the castle in Scotland, from the motte and bailey of the 1100s, through the tower house of the later Middle Ages, to the stately stone palace of the Jacobean era.
Duncan, 2nd Earl of Fife, was granted the estate of Strathbogie around 1190 as a reward for serving William I in his battle against the MacWilliams of Moray. He probably built the first castle on this site. In 1204, Earl Duncan’s third son, David, inherited his father’s Strathbogie estate. The Fifes of Strathbogie later became earls of Atholl through marriage. The circular motte, where the main stronghold would have been situated, is now a grassy mound. The bailey, or service court, is now covered by the later stone buildings.
The Fifes of Strathbogie lost their lands and titles in 1314, after taking the losing side at the Battle of Bannockburn. The victorious Robert the Bruce granted Strathbogie to a loyal supporter, Sir Adam Gordon of Huntly, in Berwickshire. Around 1445, Alexander, 2nd Lord Gordon, was created Earl of Huntly. The Gordons went from strength to strength, and north-eastern Scotland became ‘Gordon country’.
The stately palace, begun about 1450 by the newly ennobled Earl of Huntly, is one of Scotland’s most impressive late medieval buildings. The 4th Earl, George Gordon – known as ‘Cock o’ the North’ – extensively remodelled it in the 1550s.
His grandson, the 6th Earl, greatly embellished it, outside and in, to celebrate his becoming 1st Marquis of Huntly in 1599. It is the 1st Marquis’s work that holds the visitor in thrall today.
The 6th Earl transformed the palace, adding the:
splendid heraldic ‘frontispiece’ over the main door
double height oriel windows
great round tower
rectangular turret
inscription on the roofline to proclaim the Gordons’ ownership of the castle
Strathisla Distillery
Whiskey lovers should see one of Scotland's most iconic distilleries, the Strathisla Distillery, with its cobblestone courtyard and famous double pagoda roofs. Stretching over the picturesque River Isla, the Strathisla Distillery was built in 1786 and now produces the main component of the Chivas Regal blend.
~Fodor's Scotland
While there I tried both the Strathisla 12 Year and the Chivas 12 Year, my tasting notes for both mention a lack of smoke and that they were forgettable. In their defense, I think Ardbeg and Laphroiag are perfect, the smokier the better.
On the Road
In order to keep the hay dry, they rolls are often wrapped in plastic. This particular farm decorated theirs as sheep.
Gordon Chapel
One of the villages (Fochabers) lesser-known treasures is the Gordon Chapel, which has an exceptional set of stained-glass windows by Pre-Raphaelite artist Sir Edward Burne-Jones. Look out for the Good Shepherd, carrying a newborn lamb around his neck.
~Fodor's Scotland
Pluscarden Abbey
Pluscarden Abbey lies in the tranquil, sheltered valley of the Black Burn some six miles south west of Elgin. Pluscarden's story in one of abandonment after the Reformation in 1560, followed by restoration in the 20th Century.
Pluscarden Priory was founded by King Alexander II in 1230, who asked the Valliscaulians, a Benedictine Order, to found a community here: part of Alexander's agenda was to demonstrate his authority over what had until recently been a disputed part of his kingdom. A sister house was founded at Beauly Priory, and another at Ardchattan in Argyll. The Priory was probably finished or nearing completion when the Edward I's English army stormed through Moray in 1303. It isn't know if Pluscarden Priory suffered damage at their hands, but it seems likely. If so, repairs would have followed fairly quickly, and from 1345, Pluscarden came under the control of the Bishop of Moray from his seat in Elgin Cathedral.
The link with the Bishop of Moray did not work in the Priory's favour. Some badly judged local politics in 1390 led to Bishop Alexander Bur falling out with Alexander Stewart, the younger son of Robert II. The Bishop caused Alexander Stewart to to be excommunicated for marital infidelity. Alexander Stewart, better known as the Wolf of Badenoch responded by descending on Moray with an armed band of Highlanders and burning down Elgin Cathedral, much of the towns of Elgin and Forres, and Pluscarden Priory (see our Historical Timeline). Repairs followed, but by 1454 Pluscarden Priory was again in a state of disrepair and the number of monks had shrunk to around half a dozen. The Pope agreed an amalgamation with Urquhart Priory, a Benedictine Priory five miles east of Elgin. A major programme of rebuilding followed at Pluscarden, now a Benedictine community, which continued well into the 1500s.
At the time of the Reformation in 1560 there were around a dozen monks at Pluscarden Priory, plus Prior Alexander living in the nearby prior's house (with his legitimised children!). On Prior Alexander's death in 1560, Mary Queen of Scots granted Pluscarden Priory and its remaining lands to the Setons. In 1587 this religious appointment was translated into a temporal Lordship, although significantly the head of the Seton family retained the legal title of Prior, ensuring that the continuity of the title was recognised in Scots law.
Fast forward to 1897, and Pluscarden was purchased by the convert to Catholicism, John Crichton-Stuart, 3rd Marquess of Bute. By 1897 the nave of the priory church had been removed and the transepts and choir were roofless. Parts of the prior's house has been converted for use as a Free Church, and the previous owner had partly restored the east range for use as a ballroom by his estate tenants and as a lodge for shooting parties. The Marquess of Bute carried on the work of restoration at Pluscarden, and built a Presbyterian Church in the valley to which the congregation then using the Prior's House could move. In 1945, Crichton-Stuart's younger son handed Pluscarden over to the Benedictine community at Prinknash Abbey in Gloucestershire, for use as a daughter house.
The first mass was held in the roofless church of the reborn Pluscarden Priory on 8 September 1948. The tower was reroofed in 1954 and Pluscarden became independent of Prinknash in 1966. In 1975, after 750 years as a Priory, Pluscarden was granted the status of an Abbey. Since then restoration of Pluscarden Abbey has continued. Visitors today can view the splendid transepts and crossing, and chapels in part of the choir. There is also a range of visitor facilities in the low range on part of the site of the nave. Much of the rest of the abbey is naturally reserved for the use of the monks and guests on retreat, including the beautifully restored east range and the newly constructed west range, opened in 1993. Work and fund raising continues, with the eventual aim of restoring the whole of Pluscarden Abbey to its former glory.
Sueno Stone
Carved from local sandstone and standing about 7m tall, Sueno’s Stone is a marvel of late Pictish art. It was carved between the mid AD 800s and early AD 900s. Many Pictish stones have been moved from their original location, however Sueno’s Stone probably still stands where it was first erected. Originally it would have looked out over the once-marshy floodplains of the rivers Mosset and Findhorn. It was probably designed to be a landmark, visible from a distance. The two faces of the cross show very different images, but it is likely that their stories are linked. One side shows a Christian cross above a scene of a royal inauguration. The other shows a grisly battle scene with numerous beheadings.
One side of the stone is dominated by a large Christian cross. Beneath the cross is an unusual scene that has been interpreted as a royal inauguration or enthronement. Two bearded figures interpreted as priests, face each other and stoop over what appears to be a central seated figure, perhaps the king. This image is entirely unique in Pictish and early medieval Scottish art.
The other side of the stone features an elaborate carved battle scene, which seems to tell a complex story. From the top, the panels on this side of the cross show:
a number of horsemen, possibly a leader and his guard, arriving for battle
a scene of battle, with combatants on foot
an object interpreted as a broch, fort, or church bell, with a number of headless corpses to the left
a group of horsemen fleeing from infantry
piles of headless corpses and severed heads below either a bridge or a tent
An obscured panel at the very bottom may show the dispersal of the defeated army.
We cannot know for certain what story the stone is telling. However, some scholars suggest it may relate to events in the mid-800s, when Gaelic speaking kings seem to have taken over lordship of the Pictish peoples. It was a time of great upheaval, with the country under pressure from maurading Norsemen. If the battle scene depicted is real, it might represent a victory of Cinaed mac Ailpín (Kenneth MacAlpin) or could also refer to his successor Domnall (Donald I), who consolidated Cinead’s hold on this part of Scotland. The inauguration scene may therefore represent the enthronement of either of these important kings. However, the scenes may not depict real battles. They could just as easily be a series of Christian messages or a foundation legend. It may also provide evidence for Scottish or Pictish beheadings.